As all of you are aware, today is the one year anniversary of the devastating earthquake and tsunami that struck the Tohoku region. To mark the occasion, I went to an interfaith prayer service in Kamakura today and got a chnace to see one of the disaster zones last weekend.
I got a chance to go to Sendai to visit my friend and while there saw one of the disaster zones. This was not a part of our plans but after our day of fun with my friend and her Japanese friend, he asked us what we wanted to do next as he was our chauffeur and guide. We didn't know. He hesitated for a moment and told us that he would like us to see one of the hardest hit areas in Sendai-shi from the tsunami. We both agreed. It struck me first and foremost how he had invited us to see this area. Instead of asking, he said he would like to take us to see it as though he was saying that he wanted us to see the struggle and reality of what Japan had and is still going through. On the way there, we passed so much land that was just flat. I wasn't sure if it was due to the tsunami or if it was just farm land. Then some still standing but heavily damaged houses started to dot the scenery and we knew we were starting to come into the heavily impacted area. Now, much of the debris form the houses has been cleared away so the landscape is pretty much just flat ground but those few standing houses are a large testament to some of the damage done. Our friend started to point details like the trees and the old gas station. We started driving closer to the coast and passed by a school. My friend and I both gasped as there were piles of debris in the school yard. I immediately thought it was children's school things still left unclaimed. Catching on to this, he slowed down and showed us that they were actually cars and motorcycles that had been tossed into the school or the surrounding area. There is no where to properly dispose of these things so they just sit in the school yard.
We pulled up to the shore to a memorial built for the people who died or are still missing in this area. I followed my friend and we said a prayer to pay our respects. Now, something to understand about this experience. We were with our Japanese friend who lived in Sendai at the time. Japanese people generally do not outwardly display too much emotion in public. I knew that I would be upset by this trip so I kind of removed myself from it a bit. It was almost like I wasn't in my mind and wasn't processing what I was absorbing. I didn't want to get too upset or "create a scene" for our friend who would not know how to handle that kind of response. True to form he himself was very removed and almost stoic the whole time.
When we first got up to the shrine, though, I almost lost it. In Japan, people will leave offerings for the dead: their favorite drink or food generally. Laying at the foot of the shrine were a couple of packs of special mochi given to little girls for Girls Day. I knew that meant that these sweet treats were meant for young girls about ages 3-8 and it saddened me so much to see those offerings for some little girls who never made it home that day.
The shrine
Some of the offerings left for the dead and missing.
I had to step away so we stepped up to the ocean to take a look.
My friend stopping to touch some of the twisted guard rails to the ocean
After we had some time to compose ourselves, we continued walking through the area just surveying what was left which wasn't much.
Nothing left now but some foundations where a whole neighborhood used to be.
Even processing it now, it feels like a dream that I was actually there. It made me want to help with the reconstruction so badly. I was so relieved that I'm going to do some volunteer work in the area soon. Otherwise, I think I may have walked away from this with a feeling of helplessness and distress. I have really come to love this country and to see this kind of destruction and suffering was painful. It gave me so much admiration though for the people of Tohoku who are just picking up the pieces and moving forward. They are all unsung heroes. I can't even imagine the strength that takes. There is a lot of work to be done here but I know that the people will keep moving forward as best as they can. Please hope, pray, and give for Japan.
Here's some additional video and photos from my visit to the disaster zone.
Today, on the actual day of the anniversary, I made a trek out to Kamakura to go to Kencho-ji, one of the most sacred Zen Buddhist temples in Japan and the most sacred in Kamakura. I had seen a flyer for an interfaith prayer service to be held at the temple at the exact time of the earthquake 2:46 PM. I got there at 2:20 and there was a large line to get in.
Hello line and gate
I easily made it in in 5 minutes though since they were not charging the entrance fee as they normally do. I followed the mass of people and got there just in time to see the procession. It started with the Shinto priests, then came the Christians, and then the Buddhist monks.
Many sects of Buddhism were represented
Many sects of Christianity were represented
The Shinto priests
The lady next to me thanked me for my sincere prayers (that is literally what she said)
After the procession, one of the sacred bells was rung and a moment of silence was observed. Then the service started. Each religion had it's chance to offer up a prayer. It was so beautiful to see everyone together praying for one cause. It felt wonderful to be so connected in that moment. Even though the service was two hours long, everyone remained prayerful and respectful while all religious figures were speaking. One of the things that struck me though was that the Christian ministers were the only one that actively involved the crowed with prayers and songs. Although it was super interesting to hear some Buddhist chants by the monks while we all prayed and meditated. This was the most emotional I have ever seen or felt Japanese people before. Older women shielded their faces as they wept. Men stood silently as they allowed one or two tears to slip out. Younger women, like myself, took out hand towels and dabbed at our eyes when we just couldn't hold it in any longer. Yet, there was no wailing or hugging just this silent display of grief and pain for the people in their country who have suffered so much. Words cannot describe how beautiful and emotional this service was for all involved. Even if I didn't understand the prayers, I felt like a part of the spiritual whole and it was amazing.
This weekend I ventured to the north of Japan for the first time and let me say it was pretty great! It was kind of an emotional roller coaster but I'll get to that later. I started with a very early train to Tokyo to catch an 7:45 shinkansen. I am NEVER going to get tired of taking the shinkansen. The best way to travel across the country is by a comfortable bullet train. I also spent a bit more money this weekend and took the fastest and most comfortable of the shinkansens. It was so cushy and smooth! There was a whole car that was just comfy coaches and tables called the conductors car. It was well worth the extra cash.
Once I arrived, my friend took me to her place. I dropped my stuff off and we hung at her mall until her freind could pick us up. Her mall was awesome fun! It was made to resemble an American style mall. In fact, it was even called The Mall. It was fun to stroll through and see all of the fun boutiques.
Her Japanese friend, Kazuto, came and picked us up to show me around Sendai. First on the list was to stop at a traditional Japanese hot spring called an onsen. I have been to an onsen before but this was my friend's first time. It's kind of an intimidating experience the first time. There are some rules that you need to follow. It's also super intimidating for most people because you have to go in naked. The girls are separated from the guys so it's not as awkward as it could be but it is still a little unnerving for most foreigners. It is a fantastic experience though! The hot springs are so relaxing especially if they are natural and outdoors. We did an outdoor one despite the fact that it was 3 degrees outside. I was told that was the best time to go to an outdoor onsen and they were right! The water temperature combined with the air temperature just made for a perfect mix. If the water got too hot, which it frequently does, you need only step out for a minute before plunging back in. Everyone at the onsen is so friendly too. We had a couple of people smiling at us and trying to help us out. There was even a lady who spoke some English to us! Great experience!
After the onsen, we headed over to the site of Sendai castle. The castle was destroyed many years ago but there is a great shrine, statue, and view to to see there.
Sendai city
The lord of the castle
The beautifuk shrine and Kazuto!
After our stroll through the castle grounds, we hopped back into Kazuto's car. He asked us where we wanted to go next. We both just shrugged. He then said that he wanted to take us out to a tsunami affected zone. We both agreed wanting to witness first hand some of the damage caused by the March 11th earthquake and tsunami.
We pulled up and the who area was just desolate. It was an amazing, heartbreaking, and emotional experience. I need to write a whole new post for you all just on that. For now, here are some photos I took from the area.
A shrine to remember those who died or are still considered missing
We headed back to my friends place after that and hit the sack right away since we were both pretty drained from the day.
The next day, we woke up to snow! I was very excited at first and then remembered that I had to walk through it all. Gross. Fun and odd fact, Japanese people use umbrellas here when it is snowing. Very puzzing to me.
Seriously, I don't understand...
We headed off to Matsushima which supposedly has one of the third most scenic view in Japan. It was very beautiful! I'm sure it would have been more beautiful if it wasn't 1 degree and raining though. We actually hopped on the wrong train at first. We started walking towards the main area of town. We made it about 5 mins before we turned around and headed back to the station to just take a taxi. It really was miserable out! The cab driver dropped us off and we were off to see the islands and the view! The most interesting thing was that the closer islands were actually connected by footbridge to the mainland. Although we highly doubted the safety of some of these bridges...
Oh hey there slippery 2X4s, why are you the only thing between me and the ocean?
But it was worth it
The longest bridge. Took us a good 5-7 minutes to cross at 252 meters
We headed back to her place, grabbed dinner and I went back on the shinkansen for the three and a half hour journey home. I also brought back with me a fantastic cold that has just wiped me out all week. Curse you not waterproof boots and leaky umbrella! It was well worth it though.
